stain on spray

Hi. Yesterday and today I sprayed my model with dark blue. When looking at the model in light I could see a lot of shadows in the spray. I sanded the model and today I added some retarder with the paint. Still I didn't solved the problem. Anyone knows what I'm doing wrong?

You are doing nothing wrong , its the weather that is wrong september is the worst month to spray models because of high humidity ..........

Thanks very much for the reply!! So during september or when humidity is high I avoid spraying at all ? or there is something I can do which maybe can overcome the humidity effect?

I don't now if there is a solution , but we avoid spray during this weather, especially high humidity and southwinds they are awful weather every thing sticky , when I use work as carpenter and we spray , we use to add retarder but that's is more for cold weather...

Thanks very much for your help! I was starting getting frustrated and thinking that that I had something wrong with my airbrush!

Do recommend to sand the model again or just overcoat?

Im guessing thats Antione?

Ive had similar problems too where you get some areas very dusty and darker.. almost like you sparayed on mould. In that case its because the paint is drying on contact or ur spraying too far with high trigger.

I was gonna go do some airbrushing soon, since its cool and non-humid, or is it still bad?
I didnt know there is a retarder for enamels? whats it called?

I think it's better to sand lightly , and remove any overspray areas which may have been built, give a very light undercoat and continue ...But I still insist that you avoid spray in these southwinds they are very bad .............

Yes Adrian Its me Antoine!

RAF wrote:Yes Adrian Its me Antoine!

What is this enamel retarder's name you use??

Adrian/Antione

I am imagining you two having nightmares before starting spraying, why do you want to use retarder for. If possible tomorrow please bring the sprayed models with you to club so we can analyse the situation. I never used retarder and so far I always obtained acceptable finishes.

With enamel paints I always use cellulose thinner (Fidea 416) the only problem with this is the smell and fumes so you must always spray in a well ventilated area and wear a mask. If the paint you are using tends to dry gloss, like DBI or Compucolor, just add some matt varnish (humbrol or modelmaster).

As you two are just at the beginning of the hobby, I suggest that you invest in acrylic paint, it is a wonder to work with as it dries hard in just 10 min, it is very strong even to mask it over and also you can spray in your bedroom with no smell or fumes and it does not depend on the weather.

I hope this was of any help and if you still do not get it we will organise a demo at club.

J

Im not having any problems with my paint like Antoine! ive past painting stage ages ago
I wouldnt mind acrylics (i have 2 already) but they are too confusing to work with. each brand has its own specific thinning and cleaning liquids (water is no too reliable) I have 2 revell acrylics that dry very quickly on the AB and water doesnt take it off. some say use IPA, but IPA turns it into jelly. so i dunno what to use :s and i dont really trust acidic cleaners..

Hi Joseph!
Thanks for your help!

Yes for me its a big nightmare when I grab the airbrush! and I think it's the most fun part of the hobby! I thought of start using acrylic paint but I don't know much about them. I spray with white spirit cause when I tried to use cellulose the paint was very grainy.

When spraying small parts I have no problems or little problems but when spraying a whole model its more than a nightmare. I can tell you that I sanded and repainted the panther approximately five times! The finish was very uneven with parts of the aircraft comes out ok and parts very dull and shadowy and parts grainy.

I also admit that I lack airbrushing techniques from thinning and mixing the paint, passing with the airbrush to holding and pushing the trigger in my hand and most of the bad results are due to this so I think a demo for us beginers would be an excellent opportunity!

Sometimes I also think that my airbrush is not adequate for large areas. I've got a badger 100 armed with fine and gravity feed.

Antoine.. why dont you send us a photo of the paint problem??


I think your using too much trigger (the thing you push back and forward)

Weather - it can affect to some extent, but never really had trouble spraying in any kind of weather, from hot/high humidity to extremely cold(relative). Could be a mixing problem, air pressure, etc... I think is not an airbrush problem, the 100 is dual action so you can control the flow. I have a badger 150 and will not change it with any other airbrush. Posting a picture of the problem can help.

A thing that will certainly help is practise, you have to get the 'feel' of your airbrush, how the trigger behaves and so on. It is all in the trigger, once you get used to it, it will be easier.

I took a look at your badger 150 and found your airbrush is almost axactly like mine! black tip instead of blue. only mine is a cheap chinese knock-off worth about 30 euros.. and works very well
http://i7.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/22/64/8ff5_1_b.JPG

Which makes me wonder is it really worth buying an expensive airbrush worth LM60 when you can buy one for LM10

AdriaN wrote:I took a look at your badger 150 and found your airbrush is almost axactly like mine! black tip instead of blue. only mine is a cheap chinese knock-off worth about 30 euros.. and works very well
http://i7.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/22/64/8ff5_1_b.JPG

Which makes me wonder is it really worth buying an expensive airbrush worth LM60 when you can buy one for LM10

Looking like it does't mean it will work like it. Buying an original bagder online is definitely cheaper than buying it from here. A quick search for a 150 on the net, and you can find it for about $110, that is about 75 euros, still a very good investment. The airbrush is a great asset and an investment, so be a bit careful when buying and choose a good brand, being it badger, pashe, or other. I have had mine for years now, and it never failed me.

Adrian sorry, but I tend to confuse you two and also for my misinterpratation of your reply earlier .

As JF said it is very good to invest in a very good quality airbrush, Antoine your airbrush is good and is like the one I use, but at the moment I prefer the Pasche, but as long as it is dual action, i.e. you control the flow of air by pressing the trigger and the flow of paint by how much you pull the trigger towards yourself, it is OK.

Yes when you spray a large area you tend to end up with patches of different sheen, this mostly happens when you use gloss paint, but as long as the colour is of the same hue all over, it is OK. You will correct this with the gloss varnish and matt/semi-matt or gloss finish.

Tamiya acrylic must always be thinned with the Tamiya acrylic thinner.
Revell/Modelmaster thinned with water.
Misterkit, I use this brand for the WWI aircraft as this paint is very good and accurate, is thinned with IPA.

For cleaning I use cellulose thinner and then a good clean up with "Badger Airbrush Cleaner" this is also a bit oily so it also protects.

Adrian again sorry for my confusion and am very glad that you have passed your painting stage

J

Joseph wrote:

For cleaning I use cellulose thinner and then a good clean up with "Badger Airbrush Cleaner" this is also a bit oily so it also protects.

Really? so cellulose will clean revell acrylic? even dried?

FJ wrote:
Looking like it does't mean it will work like it. Buying an original bagder online is definitely cheaper than buying it from here. A quick search for a 150 on the net, and you can find it for about $110, that is about 75 euros, still a very good investment. The airbrush is a great asset and an investment, so be a bit careful when buying and choose a good brand, being it badger, pashe, or other. I have had mine for years now, and it never failed me.

I was thinking of a proper one. NOT from malta. i was looking at Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Solo for 88BP (not too sure if its double action) or a Hansa381, from a guys site in england who i spoke to. but i think your real face-to-face advice is better & safer..

http://www.little-cars.co.uk/pricelst.htm <- go on Tools and Accessories

Adrian, Check this site http://www.germanairbrush.com/, for Harder & Steenback airbrushes, you can have a look at the instruction manuals as well. Never heard of these before so cannot comment.

Nothing will remove acrylic paint when dried. You clean your airbrush when the paint is still wet!

I think that there is a local agent for the Harder & Steenbeck airbrushes, at Zabbar near Miracle Foods, on the way from Fgura on the right RHS as you leave the traffic lights for M'Scala. It is good to get the feel of the airbrush before you purchase it. Also give a visit to Graf Arts at San Gwann so you will see the Pasche airbrushes, these are very well priced nearly the same price as from abroad.

J

Joseph wrote:Nothing will remove acrylic paint when dried. You clean your airbrush when the paint is still wet!

I think that there is a local agent for the Harder & Steenbeck airbrushes, at Zabbar near Miracle Foods, on the way from Fgura on the right RHS as you leave the traffic lights for M'Scala. It is good to get the feel of the airbrush before you purchase it. Also give a visit to Graf Arts at San Gwann so you will see the Pasche airbrushes, these are very well priced nearly the same price as from abroad.

J

I often get dried acrylic on the needle tip and some spilled paint on the airbrush. it also dries in the paint cup somtimes... all impossible to remove!
I didnt know graph arts sells these top airbrushes. i will give a visit!

I have a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution airbrush and I must say that I'm extremely pleased with that one.
All though I've managed to muck up one of the O-Rings so I have to order a few spares from their homepage....

/Tiny

jojjemannen wrote:I have a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution airbrush and I must say that I'm extremely pleased with that one.
All though I've managed to muck up one of the O-Rings so I have to order a few spares from their homepage....

/Tiny

Which Harder & Steenbeck Evolution version??