HomeI am using Tamiya acrylic paints. Which gloss clear coat do you suggest so that I can apply an enamel wash over it?
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gloss clear coat
iCocker- Best in Show
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You can give a wash over tamiya paint without doing the extra gloss or satin coat ... They resist punishment.
Andrewt- Posts : 45
Join date : 2013-10-10
How long should I let it to cure ivan? 24hrs?
Andrewt- Posts : 45
Join date : 2013-10-10
Ivan. I used some Tamiya acrylic thinner over a painted area by Tamiya acrylics and it started to dissolve 
This issue has been a problem to me and I cant find a solution. I need help
This issue has been a problem to me and I cant find a solution. I need help
iCocker- Best in Show
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No never use tamiya thinner for washes, I use normal white spirit or mig thinner. If you want to coat just give a satin finish from any brand but as I told you not an essential ... I normally work thinners the day after ...
Dottore- Gold
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Couple of light coats of Tamiya clear X-20 or semi gloss...won't have problems thereafter with mig thinner or turpentine whatever...
Dottore
Dottore
Andrewt- Posts : 45
Join date : 2013-10-10
I am getting confused with all these different thinners...
Ray- Best in Show
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Andrewt wrote:I am getting confused with all these different thinners...
Me 2
Joking apart Andrew, just don't use Tamiya Thinner for washes & on Bare Paint...ALWAYS SEAL with a CLEAR GLOSS COAT Before!!!!!!!
Use White Spirit or WHATEVER OTHER they told you, Mig, Turp, for washes....& ALWAYS on a CLEAR GLOSS COAT
Last edited by Ray on Tue Apr 01, 2014 11:25 am; edited 1 time in total
Andrewt- Posts : 45
Join date : 2013-10-10
Thanks a lot guys for your help 
Any particular brand you suggest that will endure white spirit?
I have alclad 2 lacquers. Are these good for this job?
Any particular brand you suggest that will endure white spirit?
I have alclad 2 lacquers. Are these good for this job?
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Ray wrote:Andrewt wrote:I am getting confused with all these different thinners...
[i]Me 2
Joking apart Andrew, just don't use Tamiya Thinner for washes & on Bare Paint...ALWAYS SEAL with a CLEAR GLOSS COAT Before!!!!!!!
Use White Spirit or WHATEVER OTHER they told you, Mig, Turp, for washes....& ALWAYS on a CLEAR GLOSS COAT
I do not agree 100% with clear gloss Ray, Gloss give an overall coat that the idea of a wash is useless as it will run allover the area and just sit in crevises. To do just that you only need a pin wash, which is more contralable.
Washes or better as today are called 'Filters' are meant to give a 'weathering' aging effect or to bond different camo schemes together, like a glaze done when doing painting so not one colour overpowers the other ... with gloss unfortunetly it does not work.
On other terms neither matt is good as the wash will bond into the model too much ... so the best coat is a satin one, you get the benefit of both!
So always depends the finish one wants to do and the type of additional work one is going in ...
Iv
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Andrewt wrote:Thanks a lot guys for your help
Any particular brand you suggest that will endure white spirit?
I have alclad 2 lacquers. Are these good for this job?
Andrew, just go to your nearest ironmonger and buy the cheapest ... they all work the same!
What is ideal buddy, just experiment ... you will find your own ways and solutions, there is no particular reciepe ... to a finished model there are many ways but from the start you have to note what finish you want to achieve, a plane/vehicle in england is not the same thing in the pacific or the libyan desert ... the colours will also reflect the age this item has been involved, a new model will not look the same as a veteran that has been involved fighting the same theatre for days or if lucky months ... so reflect before you start!
Ivan
Ray- Best in Show
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iCocker wrote:Ray wrote:Andrewt wrote:I am getting confused with all these different thinners...
Me 2
Joking apart Andrew, just don't use Tamiya Thinner for washes & on Bare Paint...ALWAYS SEAL with a CLEAR GLOSS COAT Before!!!!!!!
Use White Spirit or WHATEVER OTHER they told you, Mig, Turp, for washes....& ALWAYS on a CLEAR GLOSS COAT
I do not agree 100% with clear gloss Ray, Gloss give an overall coat that the idea of a wash is useless as it will run allover the area and just sit in crevises. To do just that you only need a pin wash, which is more contralable.
Washes or better as today are called 'Filters' are meant to give a 'weathering' aging effect or to bond different camo schemes together, like a glaze done when doing painting so not one colour overpowers the other ... with gloss unfortunetly it does not work.
On other terms neither matt is good as the wash will bond into the model too much ... so the best coat is a satin one, you get the benefit of both!
So always depends the finish one wants to do and the type of additional work one is going in ...
Iv
[i]Yes you are right Ivan
but since Andrew here builds AIRCRAFT & not AFV's I thought the best way to start for him is to go with just the panel lines & start to roll over the whole model in DUE COURSE when he's experimented a bit & got used to the FEEL of ALL THIS MAYHEM 
Andrew, like Ivan told you...go for it MAN
ASK & LOOK before you leap, by ALL MEANS
ACT & JUMP INTO THE FIRE when there is NOTHING to LOOSE but ONLY TO GAIN, (learn by self's mistakes) by MORE MEANS
Have Fun
Andrewt- Posts : 45
Join date : 2013-10-10
guys, I have been experimenting way too much, spioling the paint work everytime. so frustrating.
Listen guys, when you see me at the club, can you come and tell me who you are. I cant associaite your nicknames
Listen guys, when you see me at the club, can you come and tell me who you are. I cant associaite your nicknames
Ray- Best in Show
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Andrewt wrote:guys, I have been experimenting way too much, spioling the paint work everytime. so frustrating.
Listen guys, when you see me at the club, can you come and tell me who you are. I cant associaite your nicknames
It's gonna COST you mate
I don't know about the others, BUT.......I usually charge €100 for that ACT
iCocker- Best in Show
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Ray the filter technique is not just for aircraft but for everything, it is also done in fine art painting and digital arts and working with photoshop :p
I now he is still getting ideas but better he get accostomed to what he can achieve with an additional technique apart this is no rocket science ...
So not to confuse ideas ...
The idea is to bond a scheme ... so for example having a 3 tone aircraft with certain colour contrasting more then others, or for example a single tone with a dramatic coloured isignia, one gives an overall filter to bond everything together. In art it is called a glaze, not as weathering but to please the naked eye and blend in colours ...
It can also work out when using certain colours to age the look or dust the aircraft with further work ... remember in this world everything gets aged, weathered and dusty, not just tanks and soldiers ... :p
What you mentioned is pinwashing, adding volume to panel lines but this is just an addition to the above to create more contrast ...
PS. to Andrew, in this hobby you never stop experimenting, if one stops it would become boring ... remember there is no perfect model, but each project is a step for a better next one ...
Iv
I now he is still getting ideas but better he get accostomed to what he can achieve with an additional technique apart this is no rocket science ...
So not to confuse ideas ...
The idea is to bond a scheme ... so for example having a 3 tone aircraft with certain colour contrasting more then others, or for example a single tone with a dramatic coloured isignia, one gives an overall filter to bond everything together. In art it is called a glaze, not as weathering but to please the naked eye and blend in colours ...
It can also work out when using certain colours to age the look or dust the aircraft with further work ... remember in this world everything gets aged, weathered and dusty, not just tanks and soldiers ... :p
What you mentioned is pinwashing, adding volume to panel lines but this is just an addition to the above to create more contrast ...
PS. to Andrew, in this hobby you never stop experimenting, if one stops it would become boring ... remember there is no perfect model, but each project is a step for a better next one ...
Iv
Andrewt- Posts : 45
Join date : 2013-10-10
Thanks guys! Much appreciated! See you at the club
Dottore- Gold
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Most recommend 'sealing' the cammo or base paint with a varnish...be it clear matt, semi-gloss or gloss...
If one is going to use a pin wash next...gloss might be better...
Just for general weathering...I personally prefer a couple of light coats with Tamiya clear X-20 which will only give it a light satin sheen...
Just my 2c...
Dottore
If one is going to use a pin wash next...gloss might be better...
Just for general weathering...I personally prefer a couple of light coats with Tamiya clear X-20 which will only give it a light satin sheen...
Just my 2c...
Dottore
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Dottore 'Why recommend sealing Camo?' ... with Tamiya it never happened to me that any layer of cano peals off ... I only use a sealing coat of varnish when an amount of decals are used or if during the weathering process something bad went out and the result ended with blotches ... so I do not see a big issue with this varnishes dilema, personally I avoid varnishes in my work as much as possible ... we are mixing the poor guy mind ...
Personally I feel varnish can screw the whole job out, especially if white blotches that come out from the talc mixed in the medium occur ... and Tamiya matt varnish have a habit to white cloud ... screwing the whole job. Apart varnishes sometimes 'kill' certain airbrush effects and weathering by blending in the colours too much ...
So as already mentioned, if one is using Tamiya/Gunzo and want to varnish to have a safe mind to seal the paint job what is recommended to add some gloss varnish with the colour mix, the end result will be satin automatically.
If like many aircraft models have decals involved, then yes by all means a good coat of varnish really help to seal for next process and also to blend in the decals over the paintjob ... remember the process of working with Tamiya or acrylic colours is totally different from the traditional enemel paint job process ... protecting tamiya paint with a varnish seal against enemel weathering I think it is just a useless action ...
So lets not confuse the poor modellers mind more
Personally I feel varnish can screw the whole job out, especially if white blotches that come out from the talc mixed in the medium occur ... and Tamiya matt varnish have a habit to white cloud ... screwing the whole job. Apart varnishes sometimes 'kill' certain airbrush effects and weathering by blending in the colours too much ...
So as already mentioned, if one is using Tamiya/Gunzo and want to varnish to have a safe mind to seal the paint job what is recommended to add some gloss varnish with the colour mix, the end result will be satin automatically.
If like many aircraft models have decals involved, then yes by all means a good coat of varnish really help to seal for next process and also to blend in the decals over the paintjob ... remember the process of working with Tamiya or acrylic colours is totally different from the traditional enemel paint job process ... protecting tamiya paint with a varnish seal against enemel weathering I think it is just a useless action ...
So lets not confuse the poor modellers mind more
Ray- Best in Show
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Andrew, if you were in Class & the Teacher would have asked you to make a SUMMARY of what you learnt from THIS lesson, what would your SUMMARY be?
Would LOVE to hear/read it here after ALL this INFO has been FED to you
Would LOVE to hear/read it here after ALL this INFO has been FED to you
iCocker- Best in Show
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Ray wrote:Andrew, if you were in Class & the Teacher would have asked you to make a SUMMARY of what you learnt from THIS lesson, what would your SUMMARY be?
Would LOVE to hear/read it here after ALL this INFO has been FED to you
Probably confused more then he started
Dottore- Gold
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Uses a varnish...to seal his work...mostly tamiya clear or even products from rattle cans like Purity Seal....
Dottore
Dottore
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