A double build: Grumman F4F-4 Wildcat (Trumpeter 1/32) and Grumman F4F-4/Martlet Mk. V (Revell 1/32)

Ray wrote:Duncan, even without the wash, and judging from the pics it looks like you did a great paint job + chipping and all.....really welldone

Thanks Ray...

SEATBELTS??

What interior green are you using??

AdriaN wrote:SEATBELTS??

What interior green are you using??

Yeah, I know... I'm missing seatbelts at the mo... trying to do some myself......

Interior Green is Humbrol Interior Green, don't know the number by heart

clioguy wrote:

AdriaN wrote:SEATBELTS??

What interior green are you using??

Yeah, I know... I'm missing seatbelts at the mo... trying to do some myself......

Interior Green is Humbrol Interior Green, don't know the number by heart

Ive never manged to find interior green from the model master & revell range So as an alternative ive found the revell acrylic Fern Green is a very close match i also have MM green zinc chromate which is often used BUT i think its too bright

Looking good Dunc...one question...is that a mould line on the thing which looks like a joystick with a red head on left hand side of pilot seat?

Dottore

AdriaN wrote:

clioguy wrote:

AdriaN wrote:SEATBELTS??

What interior green are you using??

Yeah, I know... I'm missing seatbelts at the mo... trying to do some myself......

Interior Green is Humbrol Interior Green, don't know the number by heart

Ive never manged to find interior green from the model master & revell range So as an alternative ive found the revell acrylic Fern Green is a very close match i also have MM green zinc chromate which is often used BUT i think its too bright

I have Humbrol Interior Green (bought from K-Hobbies around a year ago, last 2 bottles). I also have Green Zinc Chromate and Yellow Zinc Chromate, but cannot remember if from Humbrol or White Model Ensign, will need to check.

The F4F-3 had the bright green interior (ie seat and cockpit sidewalls)you are mentioning together with an all-black cockpit (instrument panel, control ecasements, etc) but the F4F-4 had just the dial panel black and the cockpit was interior green. The F4F-4 also had just lap seat belts, no shoulder straps (so that should make my work a tad easier). In fact, the gunsight had a cushion at the front so that in the case of heavy landings, the pilot's head would not get smashed. The F4F-7 had then shoulder seat belts.

Dottore wrote:Looking good Dunc...one question...is that a mould line on the thing which looks like a joystick with a red head on left hand side of pilot seat?

Dottore

Ooops, you got what I missed!! Will clean it up and touch it up..... we just found another use for the forum!

Well done Duncan....nice job u r doing there....yes I have the same problems with Trumpeter...so innacurate and have to make so many alterations to my ships....Richelieu was atrocious....and had to make so many changes and alterations to get a decent result !!!
in nannu pec

Lovely work Duncan, why don;t you order some seat belts from Radu Brinzan, you will get them in less than a week and believe me they are really nice. Check them out. http://www.radubstore.com/

Ok, so a little update is due.....

I gave the cockpit a wash with burnt umber oil.... this is actually my first try at washing, so fire away with your comments!

AdriaN wrote:

clioguy wrote:

AdriaN wrote:SEATBELTS??

What interior green are you using??

Yeah, I know... I'm missing seatbelts at the mo... trying to do some myself......

Interior Green is Humbrol Interior Green, don't know the number by heart

Ive never manged to find interior green from the model master & revell range So as an alternative ive found the revell acrylic Fern Green is a very close match i also have MM green zinc chromate which is often used BUT i think its too bright

Adrian, I checked the paint I used.... Interior green is Humbrol Interior Green 158.
HTH

you need a PIN WASH...what you have achieved so far is a FILTER.
What I do is thicken up the wash a bit...say 9 parts thinner to 1 part raw umber....
Then I wet small areas at a time with CLEAN thinner (if ure using enamals I suggest you seal the paint with an acrylic varnish)and by using a very fine pointed brush wet with the wash I creat false shadows around all the items to bring out the detail.
If the paint work is gloss you can do away with wetting the area with clean thinner. The wash will flow automatically around all details and into panel lines etc..
I think thats what ure trying to achieve...

Dottore

For some reason, the oil paint I have doesn't dissolve in the thinner... it stays in patches...I bought it from Sistina, it is artists' oil color, Burnt umber, and I'm using normal thinner to try and dissolve it. What am I doing wrong?

Windsor and Newton (or Winton) oil colour...and Mig thinner for washes (a specialised product) but even Windsor and Newton artists white spirit will do....

Should dissolve without problems. Make sure what you have got is not Windsor and Newton tube ACRYLIC colour!!!

If you need any of the above I have loads...just pop by no problem. We can experiment on some washes too if you want...Up to you!

Dottore

Dottore wrote:Windsor and Newton (or Winton) oil colour...and Mig thinner for washes (a specialised product) but even Windsor and Newton artists white spirit will do....

Should dissolve without problems. Make sure what you have got is not Windsor and Newton tube ACRYLIC colour!!!

If you need any of the above I have loads...just pop by no problem. We can experiment on some washes too if you want...Up to you!

Dottore

I bought Norma Professional Artists Oil paint from Sistina. TBH, I tried to dissolve using normal thinner, I'm going to try with White Spirit now, see what happens.....
Filkas inkellmek!
Thanks

White spirit worked a charm and dissolved the oil paint beautifully. This is the result after another wash:








What do you think now?

What do you mean by 'normal thinner'??
for oil washes i always use WS!

Much better...but still there's much room for improvement Duncan...if I were you i woul get a soft wide brush dampened in white spirit now an clean up the wash a litle bit by ry brushing off the excess oil paint...don't know if youre undersanding me with this....

Still I think a good pinwash would make this cockpit stand out a treat! As always aution when using thinners on paint make sure it doesnt lift the paint...

Dottore

Great work Duncan. Next time control your wash and don't apply it all over the place but where there is raised detail so that it forms a sort of shadow around it. As Doc said, you are still in time to clean up the excess but be careful, sometimes the white spirit dissolves the paint so try a bit and see what happens. If you start the see the paint come off stop and leave as it is , it is very nice and looks good already. Besides, the pit with the fuse closed up will not show that much. Great work!!

Tried to clean up the excess wash with white spirit, no effect on the paint (Humbrol)....

LOOKING GOOD NOW, I WOULD TAKE ON DOC'S SUGGESTION OF A DARK CONTROLLED PIN WASH IN CERTAIN AREAS.

Thanks Alex... will get it with me on Wednesday so we can look at it properly..... I will also ask humbly for your gentile opinion and explanation of techniques (kemm qed inhossni nilghaq!!)

Tks for your comments guys!

I'm sure you dont need our advice to see what great improvement the wash does...and yet there is still place for a good darker pinwash. You're mastering the wash technique Duncan...nothing better than good old trial and error. (God knows how many models I've thrown in the bin though that way LOL)

Dottore

you think I should use a darker colour wash? I'm using burnt umber.

I know the wash would improve it a lot.... just was a bit cautious with this being the first one.

The base is light enough so raw umber is OK. If it was darker you can add some black...or use MIG productions custom made DARK WASH...

Its not the colour thats the problem in this case...the method...

Dottore