FW190-D9 of JG26

That some really good detail in the wheel wells. I would also be interested to know what kind of why are you used. I've looked at some solder, but that is usually really expensive. I did pick up some really thin copper wire used for soldering landing gear in radio controlled aircraft, also picked up some wire at the craft store and a nice role of really thin florist wire at the dollar store. Still looking for other diameters that are affordable.

Thanks guys, Brad the wire is just stripped electrical wiring of various thicknesses. This time i even used the outer plastic covering for the black piping. I believe that the thinner gauge wire came from old headphones cable. You just strip any wire you can find and see how thick it is.

Thanks. I have a little bit of electrical wire, just don't seem to end up with any spare stuff lately. If I ever get near the electrical store that carries it, I'll have to stop in.

Some more work. The wheel/rear engine bay is done, dirtied, washed and dusted and also given a glaze of oil. I now started working on the flaps area. This needs some work to detail it correctly.

Wow Brian ... now I know how you became an engineer......

Thanks for the comments, glad you like it. I don;t like the photos, it looks better in real life, more realistic. Actually i am very happy with it but was disappointed when i saw the pics. But i needed to post something.

Sorry for skipping steps but here is the complete model at last, hope you like it. Trying to do a base for it. Will take some more pics when the base is done and hopefully bring it to the club for you to see.

Looking good Brian , bring it along at the club , so we can admire more your work... 

You photograph models outside? Think I prefer artificial lighting for shooting models.

The chipping I particularly like Brian. Very hard to keep restraint all too often I find modellers go over board with chipping as I have done myself in the past. So easy to get carried away! But your chips are really realistic and in scale. Are they brush painted or did you mask prior to top coating with some maskol etc?

Also the landing gear pic is stunning. You can't tell its a model!

Well done again!

Dottore

Thanks for your kind comments. Glad you like it.

Dottore, I like a natural setting and found that spot on my front porch which gives me a good natural feel to the photos. As regards chipping, i cover the entire aircraft in silver wax, (Rub'n buff) prior to painting. When it is all painted, i just grab my scalpel and scratch away the topcoat to reveal the underside aluminium. They are real chips and nothing is painted on. Please note also that the major markings including the serial number are painted on. Only the yellow 15 and the stencilling are decals.

The most significant news of all, however, is tha I have just received an email from the pilot's son telling me that his father, the vet who flew this FW190 is 89 today. What a co-incidence. Best wishes to him and may he enjoy many more years to come.

Although your Dora, has all her skin on...   the final result looks superior to my eyes. I like the stretched skin effect you did (I do it with painting work). However the model crows and requests for a little diorama. (like your Bf-110)

Magnificent work, Brian.

Go for a He-111 now... 

sterling work Brian...well done again    
brilliant finish...brilliant detail...the works...
my compliments sir
in nannu8) 

I would second Alex on this, maginicent bird my friend but needs a story as usual ... those trees take them off they are not German

Great to get in contact with the real veteran Brian, you should start displaying their real fotos with the models during the expo ...

Ivan

Thanks but i have no time for a dio. My modeling time is very limited and i need to start on another project before my eyes give up.

Amazing work as ALWAYS Brian but.....please get the hint of the photographic experts who SWEAR by a "studio setting" IMHO

Natural light DEFUSES everything from shadows to washes & besides cast UNWANTED shadows ACCORDINGLY  

Sorry for this, just my 2c worth as it SADDENS me when such a MASTERPIECE can't be viewed IN ALL ITS GLORY  

Will take up your advice as i always do. I am preparing a suitable base for this model which should try to depict a forest or wooded clearing since this is how they operated at this late stage of the war. I will take photos accordingly and repost. I hope that i can do this soon. Thanks for all the input!

Thanks for your kind words Ray but we miss your figures too. Your subjects are always novel and not the standard run of the mill soldiers etc so i always looked forward to your projects, deeply missed. If you can possibly remember at least in which section you posted the studio setting i can try to look for it.

bcauchi wrote:Thanks for your kind words Ray but we miss your figures too. Your subjects are always novel and not the standard run of the mill soldiers etc so i always looked forward to your projects, deeply missed. If you can possibly remember at least in which section you posted the studio setting i can try to look for it.

Is it this you want to find Brian....

https://ipmsmalta.forumotion.net/t243-better-photograohy-wed-7th-october

Nice photography!

Outdoor photography with natural sunlight makes the model look like the real thing. I like the low angle shots and the undercarriage shot which looks totally realistic.

Of course, studio photography brings out the best in a model, if well exposed and the lighting is well placed.

Great model, Brian

Great job on the 190! Really looks great with all of the different colors and a silver wax looks great on the underside of the wings.

Great result as always Brian!! As regards the photographs, are you using the smallest aperture (Largest number like 22) on your camera? Smaller apertures give largest depth of field, which means that you get near and far away objects in focus as well (to a certain limit of course). You will probably need some kind of support as the shutter speed will be low enough to result in camera shake if hand held. If using flash, a cheap diffuser to minimize shadows can easily be made by an opaque plastic bag fitted with a rubber band to the flash of the camera. Also, I think that partial shadows from the trees is not a good idea as they are not to scale, and also mess up the exposure of the photos. If taking photos outside, its better early or late and not midday, and better to stay within around 60 degrees to the sunlight direction and avoid shooting from the opposite side of the light direction. Personally, I like to use a longer focal length and get a bit farther away from the model, and not use a wide angle. I hope that helps!

Thanks Gordon but my camera is not a sophisticated one. I think i will opt to take pics inside. When i had taken the photos of the 110 in the exact same spot, it was winter or autumn and the sky was totally overcast and the lighting was perfect. This time the sun was way too bright. I will fix in a week's time when i will hopefully have the base done.