Soviet Fast Tank BT-7 1935 model/1-35

Great work Ivan!

Great job Ivan. nice weathering

Thanks guys, you give me more encouragment in the project ... true it's nice making tank interior and you can get easily carried away as I did in the turret and then there is the gizmo the most of the work is hidden.

To be honest the driver area came as an afterthought, as I more concentrated on the turret interior and was already splashed the rest in black to obscure the content but again was not happy as still things showed and thaight of at least do the minimal detail especially after Alex handed me those excelent interior images some threads below this.

What are your thaughts on the back seats now, do you still think is a bit overdone now that is in place?

iCocker wrote:Thanks guys, you give me more encouragment in the project ... true it's nice making tank interior and you can get easily carried away as I did in the turret and then there is the gizmo the most of the work is hidden.

To be honest the driver area came as an afterthought, as I more concentrated on the turret interior and was already splashed the rest in black to obscure the content but again was not happy as still things showed and thaight of at least do the minimal detail especially after Alex handed me those excelent interior images some threads below this.

What are your thaughts on the back seats now, do you still think is a bit overdone now that is in place?

ivan if my opinion is worth anything i would leave it as is. being in an enclosed environ the light effect would be low so you need to enhance visual impact. i like it, well no actually, love it.

Brilliant Ivan and the pics through the hatch came out really nice after all and we can see what an amazing result you have achieved. Well done, really nice work.

Finally construction and interior are done, had the tank undercoating in Citadel Black Primer, correcting any further nonsenses and so have started playing with modulation technique.

Modulation is the same technique as overhead lighting as we use in the figure sphere. For the time being colours are over enhanced keeping in mind better to make heavy contrast as the way to finish will receive further colour updates, filters and weathering.

Ivan

Lovely modulation! Pity just one pic...I'm still undecided whether to go for traditional pre/post shading using same ideas or modulation....

Dottore

Dottore wrote:Lovely modulation! Pity just one pic...I'm still undecided whether to go for traditional pre/post shading using same ideas or modulation....

Dottore

Issa nibghatlhekk il-pasarella li ghamiltlu ... mela hsibtni qied Piazza di Spagnia?????

Thanks mate but if I were you better decide at the earliest ... though one solid green tank helps with some modulation effects ... especially is not OD!!!!!

Great effect Ivan......modulation at its best IMHO.

Maybe a silly question......why did the fenders not recieve the same step/degree of highlighting

have to join the chorus, i think one of the better ones as regards to modulation i have seen. you managed to keep the colour in its shade and highlight.and what can i say about the detail, nothing much except that its fantastic


btw what paint did you use. i need it for my t-30/40 (well actually its your t-30/40). will feature it soon. casting new wheels susp etc so if you go for a t30/40/60/70/80 you know where to look for correct roadwheels

iCocker wrote:

Dottore wrote:Lovely modulation! Pity just one pic...I'm still undecided whether to go for traditional pre/post shading using same ideas or modulation....

Dottore

Issa nibghatlhekk il-pasarella li ghamiltlu ... mela hsibtni qied Piazza di Spagnia?????

Thanks mate but if I were you better decide at the earliest ... though one solid green tank helps with some modulation effects ... especially is not OD!!!!!

ivan the cromwell is not olive drab

My question is the same as Ray's why not highlight the side fenders? They are horizontal flat surfaces too and should have been highlit with the rest. Otherwise very nice highlighting.

prosit looks great

D

Thank you guys for the comments, was a bit sceptic how modulation would be received as I was seeing it a bit overdone ... but seems that is the way to bind everything together finally, will see ...
Good point araised by Ray and Brian, very sharped eye prosit, BUT it is meant to be as the position of model is meant to be different, infact I have to update image as yesterday I have noticed and corrected that I made a gradation mistake on the side areas below the fender ... hope to manage to update with images ASAP.
@ Alex. Paint is Tamiya wih Lacquer Thinner worked in almost glazes, it is the best mix I am confortable with and give me some time to dry and correct, apart with lacquer the finish is very smooth and satin.
Thanks again guys ...
Ivan

Another note about Modulation, as this is an experiment for me nad a further update on last year's tests, I have to say that it has a potential tool, as the stop sign rule on figures. I have to admit that colours are a bit less dramatic to the eye but with just an overhead lighting the camera lense captured a contrast ... I think it is a tool we should strat experiment a little with to get a 3D effect especially in one tone schemes ... x'tahsbu?

iCocker wrote:Thank you guys for the comments, was a bit sceptic how modulation would be received as I was seeing it a bit overdone ... but seems that is the way to bind everything together finally, will see ...
Good point araised by Ray and Brian, very sharped eye prosit, BUT it is meant to be as the position of model is meant to be different, infact I have to update image as yesterday I have noticed and corrected that I made a gradation mistake on the side areas below the fender ... hope to manage to update with images ASAP.
@ Alex. Paint is Tamiya wih Lacquer Thinner worked in almost glazes, it is the best mix I am confortable with and give me some time to dry and correct, apart with lacquer the finish is very smooth and satin.
Thanks again guys ...
Ivan

yes ivan but which colour or colour/mix

Basically it's a mix, main ingredient is Nato Green mixed with Blue and Nato Black for dark areas and Dark Yellow for the highlights. Retouched highlights with a bit of pure Yellow mixed with Buff . I have found Nato Green a good base for my version of 4BO, the nutcounters might still say that it is not the correct green too light or too dark for soviet armour but as it is just a transition hue I feel it works OK ... personally I do not give a damn s""t at accurate factory colours as by time tanks get weathered to an extend that it change completly, apart if you are guessing from which factory and what mix was the 4BO done probably is the soviet armourbuff holygrail!!!! So I just try to get the best reasonable hue ... apart we all know that no 2 tanks are the same ; )
Ivan

DAMN!! I am getting in love with these tanks ) Someday will get to the DARK SIDE definitely

Ofcourse you must have more contrast Ivan...now you have to do the weathering with oils and pigments and everything will blend together

Kemm nider expert just saw MIG's DVD

Sam =]

Finally I am in the weathering stage, as this model is to represent a poor bastard that clashed with panzers during Operation Barbarossa, 1941, weathering shall be very basic as tanks would have just seen minumum action before. Operation Barbarossa, the invasion of Russia has been done during summer and what is for certain, especially with the primitive russian roads is dust. I have gone to a different approach then the usual pigments and this time all dust effects was done with oil paint, raw umber + naples yellow + sepia. The good thing is that you can work in glazes and have more control then pigments to get gradation effects. The only problem is a lengthy process ...

Engine grills





Lower areas

IMHO you are doing a brilliant job. I love the dust effects and they look very real indeed. It is coming to life.

love what you have done so far, but then again you know my predeliction for oils
WE WANT MORE

Just drop the padlock...looks awfully flat IMHO....

Dottore

Or try to beef it up with a small piece of plastic on the face, you will get a very nice 3~D effect. Because to be honest, it is a very nice touch and it would be a pity to remove it.

re padlock
an easy way of doining it would be layering thick paint