Dragon 1/35 Panzer IV Ausf D - Production version

It worked to mix X-21 and X-22, that gave the model a flat surface.

Did some pinwashes, but I have a question; All the pigments from the oilpaint was laying at the bottom and not mixed up good. Do I need to get another type of white spirit?

Currently I'm using the brand Mimeri, don't know if it the right one...

I use Mig oils and Thinner for washes and found them very good. They also have ready made washes, have a look here.

Tancred wrote:I use Mig oils and Thinner for washes and found them very good. They also have ready made washes, have a look here.

I think i'll might pick them up.

I noticed that I am afraid of the actual chipping process, I have problems envisioning all the steps to get there. I know hwo I would like it to look, but not how to get there.

Tiny

To start with you need the essentials, Winsor n Newton Series 7 short bristle artist round brushes, 00 and 000 are enough. These are the best brushes around and do not look to anything else or similar apart these are the most expensive, available locally from VeeGeeBee in front of the KO theatre in CityGate Valletta. Then I suggest Vallejo German Camo Brown as a base colour for chips + base colour of tank + white [or equivalent on colour wheel] to highlight.

There are no basic tricks in these just the right dilution with water [milky like] and a steady hand. Practice make perfect ... work always in diluted paint and in layers.

Just I suggest to get your camera and roam around Malta and have a look at all the caterpillars and industrial engines around, notice the type of scratches and where they are situated. Unfortunetly tanks are not available locally, so next in line are industrial engines which being a country looking like one huge construction site are available near your next house corner probably ...

Keep them coming viking!

Ivan

to what Ivan suggested....

To use enamels...especially if over an acrylic base....you can wipe away mistakes (supposedly). Forget wiping away mistakes with vallejo. Some advocate the use of oils for same reason...

When chipping try and do many minute tiny dots, merging some and not others. Easier to show then explain in words...and for heaven's sake ...EXPERIMENT on an old scrap not your latest model!!!!

Starting with a lighter version of the base coat I think is best...and filling in with a dark brown colour would produce a nice 3D effect...or else add a highlight after the deep chip....

Just some tips I found useful...

Dottore

A quick way of adding scratches is with the use of pastel pencils. Here is a Stug I use for trying out things:



This is an Umber Cretacolor Fine Art Pastel pencil. I hit and scratch the model randomly at the weld seam



to get the following



On the visor guard block



The box already had some scratches:



Put some more:



Now I will use Dark Ochre:



to add these:



Will get them for you on Wednesday if you want so you can try them out.

Good general effect Tancred but I think they look too homogenous. Real scratches come in a variety of shapes and sizes...but after your method more smaller ones can be added by brush I guess...Also they tend to look raised rather than 'chipped' IMHO...

Go ahead and practice with a brush a scrap Tiny...dont be afraid just practice...

Dottore

i think that it is an effective method and looks good and is quick to put in. Some do tend to be a bit homogenous and as dottore pointed out, there is a limit to how fine the chippings can be with that pencil.

Personally I work two types of scratches effect, the first and fast one is with Valleyos or Andreas acrylic but as everything goes with acrylics you have to master the mixture and be a bit fast ... the other which has better control is what Dottore hinted, using humbrol enemels and artist oils, but you have to mix paint well not to get the gloss effect especially when using certain oil paints. OK there is always varnish for the rescue but that is something I like to avoid in my work ...
On another note personaly I do not like to practice on scrap if not the exact model ... but then again everyone has his own way ... what can surely save you working on scrap is not to start the job allover again ... but I never learn!

Ivan

iCocker wrote:Personally I work two types of scratches effect, the first and fast one is with Valleyos or Andreas acrylic but as everything goes with acrylics you have to master the mixture and be a bit fast ... the other which has better control is what Dottore hinted, using humbrol enemels and artist oils, but you have to mix paint well not to get the gloss effect especially when using certain oil paints. OK there is always varnish for the rescue but that is something I like to avoid in my work ...

That's true, but I hate enamels. Don't know why!

iCocker wrote:
On another note personaly I do not like to practice on scrap if not the exact model ... but then again everyone has his own way ... what can surely save you working on scrap is not to start the job allover again ... but I never learn!

Ivan

What's the point in practice on a piece of scrap?

saves you ruining your latest Dragon masterpeice....(which may have taken you 9 months to build and detail!!!)

Dottore

Dottore wrote:saves you ruining your latest Dragon masterpeice....(which may have taken you 9 months to build and detail!!!)

Dottore

9? I started with it in March.. I'm not as slow as you dottore (Kisses and hugs on you buddy!)

OK. I'm back at the bench working slowly.
But the fact is, IM BACK!

Will try to do some work and get it finished.

Keep working mate!

Dottore

Ok,

I need to wash it with soap and water before continuing.

I added (wrongly for a Ausf D) the Jerry Cans to the side just to see how it looks. What do you think?









Feedback is HIGHLY appreciated!

I like the jerry cans! Nice addition!

Why do you have to wash with soap and water to continue?

Regards
Noel

You usually (though I don't)wash with soap and water when u finish construction prior to painting to remove any? moulding residue...

Dottore

Dottore wrote:You usually (though I don't)wash with soap and water when u finish construction prior to painting to remove any? moulding residue...

Dottore

But Joseph's model is already painted....why do you need to wash it Joseph?

its dusty.. and i want to remove that dust..

And I'm not happy about the color of the wooden parts.. Tips on what color to use to get it good?

Looking good, really nice work.

Valleyo sand as base...stain with raw umber...and add wood grain with raw umber...

Dottore