Behind Enemy Walls - Para 101st

This will turn into a small diorama displaying mainly figures with the Zundapp and a fountain well being the main objects

This Lion Roar (Great Wall Hobby) is a gem! Very detailed and a delight to build!





The wheels come in 6 parts! Including x2 PE rims!

This gonna look for a good built buddy!
These small bikes are a gem!

Noel!

That looks like a really good kit!

Nice to see you working. How is the elbow?

I've missed you at the club!

Beautiful kit there Noel, i'm sure it is going to look just great all done up as usual.

looks like it is a very nicely engineered kit. Keep them coming.

Great work there...bet those spokes gave you a hard time!

Dottore

@ Thanks Ivan!
@ Hi Joseph! Elbow"s ok now! Had a very painful time though till it healed! Hope you are ok too!
@ Thanks Brian!
@ Thanks J.Fenech
@ Hi Doc! The spokes were easy-pesy!

THe Zundapp nearly ready. Still have to add the brake cables.

Ray wrote:Cool bike

Its not a "bike"! It's a motorbike! Powered by an engine! Turbo and reaching speeds of over 300mph. The Zundapp was the fastest bike on the battlefield and could do 200mph on field terrain. It had a crew of 7 and had frontal armour plating of 50cm. If more were produced, it could have changed the tide of war in favor of the Germans. It's main armament was the MG34 machine gun that could fire a fast deadly 1 round per minute

What you are seeing here is the standard conventional type Zundapp

Noel Petroni wrote:

Ray wrote:Cool bike

Its not a "bike"! It's a motorbike! Powered by an engine! Turbo and reaching speeds of over 300mph. The Zundapp was the fastest bike on the battlefield and could do 200mph on field terrain. It had a crew of 7 and had frontal armour plating of 50cm. If more were produced, it could have changed the tide of war in favor of the Germans. It's main armament was the MG34 machine gun that could fire a fast deadly 1 round per minute

What you are seeing here is the standard conventional type Zundapp

motorbike with 50cm armour and crew of 7, mg34 rate of fire 1 per minute - sure you are ok too much thinner fumes maybe Not even the bismark had 50cm armour plating anywhere I think the only thing armoured close to 50cm was the Maus with 46cm

More like a panzer 1 Noel....at the most I would figure a crew of 3...two on bike and one in sidecar....

Nice MOTORbike...

PS claims of the zundapp changing tide of war are a biut far fetched i think...it wasnt a SHerman after all

Dottore

Tajba Noel, very nice bike coming along

The KS-750's engine was well designed and could deliver lots of power and torque, so much so that the bike was equipped with a towing hook and it could consequently tow heavy loads behind it...up to 1850 lbs, the bike could even carry 7 persons and their equipment quite easily

David wrote:The KS-750's engine was well designed and could deliver lots of power and torque, so much so that the bike was equipped with a towing hook and it could consequently tow heavy loads behind it...up to 1850 lbs, the bike could even carry 7 persons and their equipment quite easily

I told you it had a crew of 7 Tajba David!

Noel Petroni wrote:

Ray wrote:Cool bike

Its not a "bike"! It's a motorbike! Powered by an engine! Turbo and reaching speeds of over 300mph. The Zundapp was the fastest bike on the battlefield and could do 200mph on field terrain. It had a crew of 7 and had frontal armour plating of 50cm. If more were produced, it could have changed the tide of war in favor of the Germans. It's main armament was the MG34 machine gun that could fire a fast deadly 1 round per minute

What you are seeing here is the standard conventional type Zundapp

Noel.....WHATEVER

stupid question...... if you are assembling the whole model now, how do you paint it?

clioguy wrote:stupid question...... if you are assembling the whole model now, how do you paint it?

Good question: First of all you need to establish some targets. You need tools such as a good airbrush and about 3 grades of paint brushes. Than you go down to your secret laboratory and switch on your Mega-Hydro force-field shrinking machine to 1:35 scale. It is important to stand in from of the lazer and in the magnet force field radius to obtain an accurate downsizing scale as possible. As soon as you are down sized to scale (you might feel some drowsyness due to the transformation) it's all spray and go. Very easy.

OR..... forget the shrinking machine and spend a hella lot of time trying to airbrush the damn thing!!!

Wow, that is one really nice bike model and from the stats, i would call that a superbike.

Noel Petroni wrote:

clioguy wrote:stupid question...... if you are assembling the whole model now, how do you paint it?

Good question: First of all you need to establish some targets. You need tools such as a good airbrush and about 3 grades of paint brushes. Than you go down to your secret laboratory and switch on your Mega-Hydro force-field shrinking machine to 1:35 scale. It is important to stand in from of the lazer and in the magnet force field radius to obtain an accurate downsizing scale as possible. As soon as you are down sized to scale (you might feel some drowsyness due to the transformation) it's all spray and go. Very easy.

OR..... forget the shrinking machine and spend a hella lot of time trying to airbrush the damn thing!!!

YOU GOT A Mega-Hydro force-field shrinking machine?!?!?!?!?!? I've been looking for one of those for over 20 years!

Anyhow.

You don't glue everything together before you paint it? Do you leave it in sub-assemblies and then paint the sub-assemblies?
Because it looks really tight to come close with a AB around the engine.

jojjemannen wrote:

Noel Petroni wrote:

clioguy wrote:stupid question...... if you are assembling the whole model now, how do you paint it?

Good question: First of all you need to establish some targets. You need tools such as a good airbrush and about 3 grades of paint brushes. Than you go down to your secret laboratory and switch on your Mega-Hydro force-field shrinking machine to 1:35 scale. It is important to stand in from of the lazer and in the magnet force field radius to obtain an accurate downsizing scale as possible. As soon as you are down sized to scale (you might feel some drowsyness due to the transformation) it's all spray and go. Very easy.

OR..... forget the shrinking machine and spend a hella lot of time trying to airbrush the damn thing!!!

YOU GOT A Mega-Hydro force-field shrinking machine?!?!?!?!?!? I've been looking for one of those for over 20 years!

Anyhow.

You don't glue everything together before you paint it? Do you leave it in sub-assemblies and then paint the sub-assemblies?
Because it looks really tight to come close with a AB around the engine.

Nope! It's all glued Why? Is that bad?

I told you I have a Mega-Hydro force-field shrinking machine. I'll let you use it if you'd like. We can play pixies!

THe sub assemblies are the sidecar and the motor bike

So if it is all glued, how do you get to paint the inside of the wheels, the actual wheels behind the chassis frame, etc?

clioguy wrote:So if it is all glued, how do you get to paint the inside of the wheels, the actual wheels behind the chassis frame, etc?

How complcated you are ... really shows you are a wingy guy

clioguy wrote:So if it is all glued, how do you get to paint the inside of the wheels, the actual wheels behind the chassis frame, etc?

You'll soon see!

I might paint it this Sunday!

Regards
Noel

Sunday should be perfect.......Rain

Motor bike complete

Painting was HELL!! THe airbrush kept clogging and I think I cleaned it a hundred times!!!!!!!!! Some spray imperfections will be hidden when weathering is applied. Memx tamel!