Panzer I A - 95% DONE!!!!

Magic Sculpt is very good and I prefer to work with it nowadays, but Duro [blue and yellow ribbon] is a great tool to create hair, very fine detail and textiles such as flags. The only issue is that though very smooth once finished it can't be sanded down due that it is very 'elastic' in property. This can be rectified by mixing magic sculpt with it.

There is another material called A+B, popular with many sculptors and seen it being worked when Andrea Iotti paid us a visit and made a demo, very good aswell, much finer then milliput.

Milliput is good, I prefer the standard then the white but find the above products much finer for certain detail but not as strong as milliput so what I do is use milliput for the base and work the rest according. This is my way does not mean it is good ... Larruccia who by far is one of the top master sculptor work his models with so much intricate detail ALL in white milliput ... so depends to know your material, learn the properties and experiment!

Magic Sculpt is available from our maltese friends in UK, El Greco Miniatures ... Duro can be purchased locally from Forbidden Power in small strips via GamesWorkshop [green stuff?].

Ask David and Steve aswell to see their views ...

Have more fun ...

Ivan

Noel, that figure is looking really good now. The hair could be a bit finer but i think that you captured the feel totally, really great. If those guys would have been wearing headphones, you can have these hanging down on the tank with the cable coming from inside the hatch. I am really liking this project of yours.

iCocker wrote:Magic Sculpt is very good and I prefer to work with it nowadays, but Duro [blue and yellow ribbon] is a great tool to create hair, very fine detail and textiles such as flags. The only issue is that though very smooth once finished it can't be sanded down due that it is very 'elastic' in property. This can be rectified by mixing magic sculpt with it.

There is another material called A+B, popular with many sculptors and seen it being worked when Andrea Iotti paid us a visit and made a demo, very good aswell, much finer then milliput.

Milliput is good, I prefer the standard then the white but find the above products much finer for certain detail but not as strong as milliput so what I do is use milliput for the base and work the rest according. This is my way does not mean it is good ... Larruccia who by far is one of the top master sculptor work his models with so much intricate detail ALL in white milliput ... so depends to know your material, learn the properties and experiment!

Magic Sculpt is available from our maltese friends in UK, El Greco Miniatures ... Duro can be purchased locally from Forbidden Power in small strips via GamesWorkshop [green stuff?].

Ask David and Steve aswell to see their views ...

Have more fun ...

Ivan

Thanks for the info, Ivan... very helpful!  
QUESTION: What do you mean our our maltese friends in UK, El Greco Miniatures  

bcauchi wrote:Noel, that figure is looking really good now. The hair could be a bit finer but i think that you captured the feel totally, really great.  If those guys would have been wearing headphones, you can have these hanging down on the tank with the cable coming from inside the hatch. I am really liking this project of yours.

Thanks Brian.  Just learnt that hair can be made finer with another product other than Milliput. Next time!

You know...... I got addicted!  I want to try my capabilities and see if I'm good for it.......... the figure of the woman walking is too expensive to buy (20Euro) so I'm going to attempt to sculpt it myself!!!  

It more challenging than the dead figure because in a way it's nearly 2D but the walking figure is a complete 3D and animated.  We'll see if I'm able or not!

El Greco is a UK based company run by a Maltese couple ... qiesek ic-CIA ostra!

iCocker wrote:El Greco is a UK based company run by a Maltese couple ... qiesek ic-CIA ostra!

Really!  You know....... there is an El Greco frame maker and artist round the corner from where I live..... could it be the same family?  

Anyway...... I'll look up their site..... it's interesting to deal via UK with a Maltese couple!


.......... entered.... and .... ordered the Magic Sculpt! The ease of purchasing through the internet.... 

You are on the right track Noel - keep it up mate.

Looking very good indeed!!

I decided to do a shell hit damage!!!

Issa .... I really need your opinions.......... I'm not going to enlarge the damage.... it's going to be as is.

I re-did the rubber wheel to detach it slightly from the metal. I would suppose this would happen. What do you think if I make the lower piece the same but with part of the rubber torn off? Don't forget that there was a metal bar from the broken wheel to the back wheel which will be bent and blown in two

How does it look???????????

I like the wheel Noel, what I suggest is to thin down a bit more the walls near the hit, I feel a bit too thick for a Pz1, maybe to add more interest you would also add a bit of a crack going up, it was a common feature to see such effect, if you see images of also KO panthers turrets ... I think will add a bit more the idea ...

Iv

I think that the damage is too regular. I think that a hit would cause buckling in the plates, even in the area surrounding the hit, not such a clean hit, with some bent edges and as Ivan said, cracks in the metal. This is too clean and surgical, it looks artificial.

Noel if you want to get an idea on battle damage , check this out....

http://forum.axishistory.com/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=42446

Noel look at the second photo Marco posted up here. that is just what i had in mind. The area surrounding the hit is also effected. the metal is warped and you can tell that the round came from outside and entered the tank by the way the edges of the entry hole twist inwards to the interior of the tank. Shrapnel also leaves its mark on the surrounds. No hit from a shell is clean cut.

bcauchi wrote:I think that the damage is too regular. I think that a hit would cause buckling in the plates, even in the area surrounding the hit, not such a clean hit, with some bent edges and as Ivan said, cracks in the metal. This is too clean and surgical, it looks artificial.

Iagree with BrianNoel....try and be more adventurous...just let your hands go and work on their own ....
in nannu  

Thank you Ivan, Brian, Marco (for the photos they were very helpful.... how the hell do you find them!!!), and thank you Louis... your comments were all extreamly helpful!!!

this is what I conjured........

[quote="Noel Petroni"]Thank you Ivan, Brian, Marco (for the photos they were very helpful.... how the hell do you find them!!!), and thank you Louis... your comments were all extreamly helpful!!!





Noel did you checked the link...........

http://forum.axishistory.com/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=42446

That's precisely why I dislike Vallejo and AK paints...I stick to Tamiya though intend to try Lifecolor and Humbrol (yes good old Humbrol). Still looking good like the shading effect...

Dottore

Now we're talking Noel, that is a very convincing shell hole. Could have done with some more damage around it but it will do, i like the buckled plates, the nicks and scratches around it and all the other damage you included. Looking good now.

Personally I am still not overjoyed using acrylics compared to Tamiya ... with Valejo. Lifecolor and AK mixed with water got orange peel and a clogged airbrush after few minutes. But read over Fb people got very good results using the 'Thinner' by AK, they even managed to blend and feather with them ... unfortunetly till date I have not yet tested it, on the other hand I tested Lifecolor with their Thinner. It is much better then water, spend half a day punishing the airbrush from one colour to another and never clogged, had to work almost 80% to 20%, so I guess the AK thinner should proof the same bonus ... hope so as they got a very nice range of colours for us ...

Re.Insignia I preferto paint them when possible, nothing will replicate it ...

Ivan

iCocker wrote:Personally I am still not overjoyed using acrylics compared to Tamiya ... with Valejo. Lifecolor and AK mixed with water got orange peel and a clogged airbrush after few minutes. But read over Fb people got very good results using the 'Thinner' by AK, they even managed to blend and feather with them ... unfortunetly till date I have not yet tested it, on the other hand I tested Lifecolor with their Thinner. It is much better then water, spend half a day punishing the airbrush from one colour to another and never clogged, had to work almost 80% to 20%, so I guess the AK thinner should proof the same bonus ... hope so as they got a very nice range of colours for us ...

Re.Insignia I preferto paint them when possible, nothing will replicate it ...

Ivan

I believe that was my problem. I have now ordered the Thinner and will try it out when they arrive. I'm sure they are excellent paints. At the moment the tops for me are Life color!