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No Ray that you see is the plastic colour ..I think he is going to start the painting.....
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AdriaN- Gold
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Ray wrote:What a boring monotone finish you got
You were not supposed to spray different shades of metal finishes? What happened? Was really looking forward for the Alclad finishes
ray ray ray.
if you take time and read back, you will find it still needs to be painted!
William- Bronze
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AdriaN wrote:Ray wrote:What a boring monotone finish you got
You were not supposed to spray different shades of metal finishes? What happened? Was really looking forward for the Alclad finishes
ray ray ray.
if you take time and read back, you will find it still needs to be painted!
Don't take notice of my uncle Adrian, he's getting old
looking forward to seeing the finish
Ray- Best in Show
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skyhigh wrote:No Ray that you see is the plastic colour ..I think he is going to start the painting.....
You get 1st prize
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AdriaN wrote:Ray wrote:What a boring monotone finish you got
You were not supposed to spray different shades of metal finishes? What happened? Was really looking forward for the Alclad finishes
ray ray ray.
if you take time and read back, you will find it still needs to be painted!
You get 2nd prize
Ray- Best in Show
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William wrote:AdriaN wrote:Ray wrote:What a boring monotone finish you got
You were not supposed to spray different shades of metal finishes? What happened? Was really looking forward for the Alclad finishes
ray ray ray.
if you take time and read back, you will find it still needs to be painted!
Don't take notice of my uncle Adrian, he's getting old
looking forward to seeing the finish
You get 3rd prize
AdriaN- Gold
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Ray YOU get first prize for constantly posting useless comments just to raise your posts
AdriaN- Gold
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Chrome plating was removed with ease, using 1200 wet sand paper. Revealing white & yellow plastic. It went off with a few easy strokes! Next step is a black gloss coating!
All in all, only 2 tiny drops of putty was needed
This model has become a crash test dummy. I havnt stopped dropping it! when i was washing it, it fell out of my hand and broke a piece of its left fueltank. Also the weight is a bit loose
I am trying something new for the wheels bays. Instead of painting the wheel bays at the beginning & hastlign with masking, i will paint them right at the end.
with ease, using 1200 wet sand paper. Revealing white & yellow plastic. It went off with a few easy strokes! Next step is a black gloss coating!All in all, only 2 tiny drops of putty was needed
This model has become a crash test dummy. I havnt stopped dropping it! when i was washing it, it fell out of my hand and broke a piece of its left fueltank. Also the weight is a bit loose
I am trying something new for the wheels bays. Instead of painting the wheel bays at the beginning & hastlign with masking, i will paint them right at the end.
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paint and weather the wheel bays before starting the airframe painting - reasons why being;
1. you will be finishing the airframe in a metallic finish, so the less you fiddle around with the model after airframe painting, the less the chance of damaging the metallic finish, even though you would be using alcad on this one.
2. any touchups on a metal finish are always a nightmare, and preferably avoided if possible.
3. wheel bays will need to be weathered, but this is your choice, so any mishaps during this stage may damage the metallic finish.
in the end it is by far much more safer to spend some extra time to mask the wheel bay properly and then apply the main airframe color.
1. you will be finishing the airframe in a metallic finish, so the less you fiddle around with the model after airframe painting, the less the chance of damaging the metallic finish, even though you would be using alcad on this one.
2. any touchups on a metal finish are always a nightmare, and preferably avoided if possible.
3. wheel bays will need to be weathered, but this is your choice, so any mishaps during this stage may damage the metallic finish.
in the end it is by far much more safer to spend some extra time to mask the wheel bay properly and then apply the main airframe color.
AdriaN- Gold
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J.Fenech wrote:paint and weather the wheel bays before starting the airframe painting - reasons why being;
1. you will be finishing the airframe in a metallic finish, so the less you fiddle around with the model after airframe painting, the less the chance of damaging the metallic finish, even though you would be using alcad on this one.
2. any touchups on a metal finish are always a nightmare, and preferably avoided if possible.
3. wheel bays will need to be weathered, but this is your choice, so any mishaps during this stage may damage the metallic finish.
in the end it is by far much more safer to spend some extra time to mask the wheel bay properly and then apply the main airframe color.
I understand.
The finish will be sealed with Klear which is very strong. When i masked wheels bays before & came to remove it after paint.. i always got an uneven line between the wheel bay colour & camo & some plastic, which needed retouching anyway (which was a nightmare). weathering wheels bays is usually done at the end after panel washing.. shudnt be hard.
I am also using MM metalizers too (first timer)
I still dont know what different shadings i am going to use
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MM metallizers have a really great finish but you have to avoid handling them after unless you really protect them with some finish. Whatever you do DO NOT USE the Testors sealer for metallizer becasue your effort and finish will be ruined. Use either Revell clear varnish or else Johnson's clear.
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bcauchi wrote:MM metallizers have a really great finish but you have to avoid handling them after unless you really protect them with some finish. Whatever you do DO NOT USE the Testors sealer for metallizer becasue your effort and finish will be ruined. Use either Revell clear varnish or else Johnson's clear.
Yes marco has often warned me about it
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Another successful airbrushing session at 2am
Black is revell acrylic gloss black thinned with water & revell color clean, also some Klear & retarder.
Finish it smooth, but not dead flat. its like very very fine sand paper. do you think i should lightly wet-sand? will these microscopic dots jeopardize the polished metal finish?
Black is revell acrylic gloss black thinned with water & revell color clean, also some Klear & retarder.
Finish it smooth, but not dead flat. its like very very fine sand paper. do you think i should lightly wet-sand? will these microscopic dots jeopardize the polished metal finish?
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I have never used alclad but my bet is that you had better get it mirror smooth. Don;t forget how unforgiving NMF is so you need a good base or else every minute flaw including the rough surface might show up. A light wet sanding, as you say, should do it. By the way, they are looking great. Could not see them this morning at the office.
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bcauchi wrote:MM metallizers have a really great finish but you have to avoid handling them after unless you really protect them with some finish. Whatever you do DO NOT USE the Testors sealer for metallizer becasue your effort and finish will be ruined. Use either Revell clear varnish or else Johnson's clear.
Brian,
Can you tell us how you airbrush Johnsons Klear please? I've been trying with 3 airbrushes and a lot of pressures and mixtures but can't find a really good method.
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bcauchi wrote:I have never used alclad but my bet is that you had better get it mirror smooth. Don;t forget how unforgiving NMF is so you need a good base or else every minute flaw including the rough surface might show up. A light wet sanding, as you say, should do it. By the way, they are looking great. Could not see them this morning at the office.
light sanding is to avoid before applying alcad. I have run some experiments with alcad, and if the gloss black surface has been sanded or made matt in anyway you have a great possibility that the alcad will lift the black paint. Alcad is quite strong and resistant to masking, something which model master metalizer aren't no matter how you seal them.
AdriaN- Gold
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J.Fenech wrote:bcauchi wrote:I have never used alclad but my bet is that you had better get it mirror smooth. Don;t forget how unforgiving NMF is so you need a good base or else every minute flaw including the rough surface might show up. A light wet sanding, as you say, should do it. By the way, they are looking great. Could not see them this morning at the office.
light sanding is to avoid before applying alcad. I have run some experiments with alcad, and if the gloss black surface has been sanded or made matt in anyway you have a great possibility that the alcad will lift the black paint. Alcad is quite strong and resistant to masking, something which model master metalizer aren't no matter how you seal them.
So your suggesting i do not light sand to smoothen surface before spraying the alclad??
AdriaN- Gold
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Scirocco wrote:bcauchi wrote:MM metallizers have a really great finish but you have to avoid handling them after unless you really protect them with some finish. Whatever you do DO NOT USE the Testors sealer for metallizer becasue your effort and finish will be ruined. Use either Revell clear varnish or else Johnson's clear.
Brian,
Can you tell us how you airbrush Johnsons Klear please? I've been trying with 3 airbrushes and a lot of pressures and mixtures but can't find a really good method.
Scirocco, SAME PROBLEM HERE! it comes like i left it out in the rain. I get a lot of 'beading' and lumps of clear liquid. I used it 3 times on my panther and alsmost screwed it up everytime. I had sprayed at aroud 20psi from VERY close so not to get beading but if i wasnt fast, it would crease, form puddles and run.
I was told to spray very very lightly, lightly dusting it on, giving it light coats, then to go on heavier. never tried it.
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AdriaN wrote:J.Fenech wrote:bcauchi wrote:I have never used alclad but my bet is that you had better get it mirror smooth. Don;t forget how unforgiving NMF is so you need a good base or else every minute flaw including the rough surface might show up. A light wet sanding, as you say, should do it. By the way, they are looking great. Could not see them this morning at the office.
light sanding is to avoid before applying alcad. I have run some experiments with alcad, and if the gloss black surface has been sanded or made matt in anyway you have a great possibility that the alcad will lift the black paint. Alcad is quite strong and resistant to masking, something which model master metalizer aren't no matter how you seal them.
So your suggesting i do not light sand to smoothen surface before spraying the alclad??
If you do sand, you have to re-spray the gloss black until the gloss black finish is blemish free. The gloss finish has to remain gloss and smooth before applying the alcad or whatever you will be using. Any problems with the gloss base will show through on the silver finish.
AdriaN- Gold
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Problem?
Spraying is done BUT...every angle i move it in... i seem to get different shades or effect. Some times its bright, sometimes its dark. shall i give it more coats? i cant get a consistent effect
1) When i hold it away from me and reflect light onto it, it looks great, almost like foil.
2) When i view the wing at a shallow angle i get different shades and lines since i sprayed it in an 'up and down motion' in the direction of the airflow. even though ive gone over it a few times. i guess it works for me because it gives it tonal differientation and looks weathered.
3) Then when i view it under light at close distance it looks a lot like aluminum/silver where you can see the metallic particles. a bit like the paint on a silver car.
Ive taken a few photos to show you what i mean:
1)
2)
3)
what do you think? leave it as it is?
Spraying is done BUT...every angle i move it in... i seem to get different shades or effect. Some times its bright, sometimes its dark. shall i give it more coats? i cant get a consistent effect
1) When i hold it away from me and reflect light onto it, it looks great, almost like foil.
2) When i view the wing at a shallow angle i get different shades and lines since i sprayed it in an 'up and down motion' in the direction of the airflow. even though ive gone over it a few times. i guess it works for me because it gives it tonal differientation and looks weathered.
3) Then when i view it under light at close distance it looks a lot like aluminum/silver where you can see the metallic particles. a bit like the paint on a silver car.
Ive taken a few photos to show you what i mean:
1)
2)
3)
what do you think? leave it as it is?
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I would leave it as is, it looks just fine. In fact the "up and down motion" does give a very good lightly weathered look.
bcauchi- Best in Show
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i have never sprayed clear. I only use the brush to apply it. it is self levelling so if you apply a fine layer of it, you get no brush marks. The secret is to apply small areas at a time, preferably panel by panel. It worked for me that way. BUt only once i tried it as a finish to use with metallizer and it was in the Me262 wheel bay so i cannot really tell. I use it mostly for canopies.
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Do you still need to buff it or don;t you buff alclad?
AdriaN- Gold
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bcauchi wrote:Do you still need to buff it or don;t you buff alclad?
No you dont need to buff alclad.. but i give it a quick buff, just in case
I tried buffin modelmaster buffing metalizers... didnt see much of a difference
Klear/Future is impossible to spray (for me at least) But it works wonders on canopies. it can also be used to apply decals with and to stick canopies! you must brush very slowly and avoid lifting your brush up and down because it creates bubbles.
bcauchi- Best in Show
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Are you sure about the MM metallizers. The whole metal effect only really appears when you buff that paint.
