Airfix Avro Vulcan B Mk2

Hello again Friends

Time for another update. Painting was next on the agenda so I began by prepping the cockpit dome.

I was tempted to leave out the FlightPath windshield framing because I tried to fix it with PVA glue (as I had done for other PE items) but this wouldn't stick permanently and kept coming off - probably due to curved nature.
I was quite afraid of ruining the glazing but then tried another way - I dipped the canopy in Future.
This has the effect of protecting the glazing from any fogging resulting from using super glue.
I then proceeded to attach the framing with superglue, after I had gently heated the PE frame to make it more pliable and bent it to the required curvature of the canopy - another tip very generously provided by the Band of SSM brethren.



This however resulted in a stepped frame that is nothing like the real thing.
So used Mr Surfacer 500 to build up a gentle fairing that when sanded smooth would bridge the framing flush to the rest of the canopy.



A good base coat followed with associated repeated corrections, here and there.
I also painted the nozzles with Buffable Steel from Testors. Extremely fine stuff, this paint and after 10 mins you can rub it with a soft cloth for an added gleam.

Then it was time for pre-shading. I did this with Vallejo acrylic Black. My hands aren't so steady with the airbrush and this resulted in quite a few irregular lines. However this helps in getting random weathering which is what I'm after.



And finally the much anticipated painting phase. I used a combination of White Tac "snakes", Tamiya Tape and paper masks to mask out the wrap-around camouflage.





It was no straight forward task - even due to the sheer size of the model.
I also under-estimated the "power" of spray in some cases and ended up with inadequate masking - mainly due to the paper masks not being securely attached or covered by tape.
This resulted in flapping under the powered air flow, allowing overspray to seep in. .

Well, lesson learnt for next time.

Finally, after much re-visiting, the end result is this:



Paint used was Humbrol's 163 and 165, which are references that I got off the net.
I read that XH558 is actually not painted in the standard British camouflage colours - the shades vary a little.



Furthermore, I want to depict it as I saw it in 2009 - before it was given a fresh paint cover as seen today.



So I tried to post shade with lighter shades of the base colours to obtain the "worn out" look with the exception of the flying surfaces at the trailing edge of the wing.
These were replaced anew when the restoration process was underway and therefore feature newer looking colours.





I also noticed from pictures found on the net, that the nose and tail are not so weathered and worn.
Therefore I limited my post shading in these areas accordingly.







I gave the model a couple of coats of Future to seal in the paint and prepare for the decalling process.
This will be followed by a good wash and final sealing in together with the attachment of the undercarriage, doors and various arials, speedbrakes etc.

I hope you enjoyed this episode and thank you for watching.

Alex

very well doen Alex....prosit!!

Coming alive prosit Alex!

Wow Alex I'm impressed ...nice paint job.......

Beautiful paint job Alex, i love it, the true character of the aircraft is really showing.

Beautiful work and craftsmanship Alex...ejja let's see it ready...prosit
In Nannu

seen it at the club...quite a job you have been undertaking...

Didnt understand why did the PE become stepped when you heated it?

Dottore

Hello Again Friends

Thanks to all who have left comments here on the forum and at the club yesterday.

I'd also like to thank Chris in particular for his invaluable advice on how to fix some of the evident flaws in the camouflage lines that are not so apparent in the pictures above but nevertheless need to be addressed. Will be tackling those in the days to come before proceeding.

Dottore, I must have been unclear in my narrative about the PE. The heating had nothing to do with this issue. Actually heating was quite necessary in order to make the PE framing flexible and bend easily without it trying to spring back to it's original flat shape.

When I mentioned the step, I was referring to the fact that when you stick PE onto a surface, it will invariable become raised above that surface.
That is unless of course you cut out a recess in the shape of the PE part and fix the PE to become level to that same surface. In this case I simply couldn't cut any recesses in the clear canopy and had to fix the framing on top - thus ending up with a protruded (or stepped) frame - which in fact does not exist on the real thing. That's why, using Mr Surfacer 500, I then went on to smooth that ugly step, flush to the rest of the canopy.

Hope to have been a bit clearer.

Thanks again for watching.

Alex

Issa fhimt! Always heat (anneal) PE...I use a common lighter until it is red hot then let it air cool for a few seconds...

Caution when using mesh though the red heat might actually melt off finer detail...

Looking forward to seeing more progress on this Vulcan!

Dottore

Hello again dear friends.

Finally after so many months of work, this build is complete, just in time for the Exhibition next week.

The final stages proved to be quite a headache and put my patience to a thorough test. However I was resolved to see this project to a finish and persevered even when there were times that I was about to teach the model all about the actual principles of flight.

Anyway, after correcting some obvious painting errors that I had, I moved on to giving the model a number of coats of Future. This proved to be a good learning experience in using the airbrush (which I still consider myself quite novel about). With the invaluable advice provided by the fellows at SSM and some thorough YOUTUBE searches, I managed to get a good grasp of varying pressure to accommodate the water-like nature of Future and obtain a respectable gloss coating on my Vulcan, which is imperative for the next process - decal-ling. I'm sorry that in my haste to move along I disregarded taking some photos of these stages.

I then proceeded to weathering the model using Flory Models Dark Dirt.



This was left to dry for some 30 mins and then wiped off leaving some areas to look a bit worn off and dirty.



As explained before the model is being depicted as before XH558 took on the latest repaint (some time between 2011 and 2012 - I believe prior to the incident that cost the loss of engines 1 and 2)




With this stage complete I moved on to give the model a couple of coats of Vallejo Matt Varnish. This was a most enjoyable task and rendered an incredibly unified look of the paint, decal and weathering work. I was truly amazed and very satisfied with the outcome.

Onward to the closing steps - the fixing of details such as undercarriage legs, wheels and doors, Bomb-bay doors, various antennas and aerials, crew entry hatch and the top and bottom air-brakes.
This proved to be a very challenging phase with many re-takes on some of these parts.

However at the end all went together and I am pleased to bring on to you the final reveal photos.




















Now all that remains is a display stand that I have devised for this model. With all the details work in the bomb bay underneath I figured it would be a pity that this cannot be viewed by visitors at the exhibition. So I designed a wooden base that will have a mirror attached on it's top with a glass base poised upon glass legs standing vertically above the mirror. The model will sit on the glass base enabling viewers to see the reflection of the undersides through the mirror below. I am currently awaiting delivery of the glass and mirror work (next Wednesday). I'll post photos of the complete set-up when this is delivered.

I thank you very much for watching these updates and sharing your comments and encouragement. This has given me the required boost to strive and proceed ahead since for me this was the first ever attempt to scratch build as much detail on a model.



With hind sight I am quite happy that I decided to go for it


Best Wishes to Everyone

Beautiful work

Lovely Alex ...welldone my friend ..... it looks massive... and the bomb bay looks superb.....

Splendid work Alex, not an easy task but well handled.

Florys wash doesnt look half bad!
Till this day i haven't found the proper technique to spraying Klear/Future. Its a risk i take every time i use it.

AdriaN wrote:Florys wash doesnt look half bad!
Till this day i haven't found the proper technique to spraying Klear/Future. Its a risk i take every time i use it.

Hi Adrian

I found best to use medium-low air pressure. I'd say round about 15-20 keeping on the lower end. Klear is so thin it does not need high pressure. Let dry between coats (not more than 5-10 mins depending on conditions). Then re-coat.

Flory Models wash is easy to apply, easier to remove and flexible enough to allow you to vary according to what level of weathering you want to achieve. Excellent to accentuate panel lines. I recommend.




Hi Gordon, Marco and Brian. Thanks for your appreciation.

Regards
Alex

Prosit kollega, well done!

Well done Alex

Prosit,

It looks quite different now since I last saw it.

I am sure it will look even better on the proposed stand.

Cyril.

Thanks Tancred, Cyril and Ray

Prosit Alex well done habib...worth the time and effort a really awesome rendition of this magnificent bird.....
in nannu

ascomt wrote:Thanks Tancred, Cyril and Ray

Welcome Alex and by the way you realise you had over 10,000 views!