Werner Voss in 1:48scale

jojjemannen wrote:As a native of a pinewood country and IKEA I can only say.. It looks like home.

But it lacks the .. darkened areas where the branches pops out of the tree.
If you see this picture you might get what I'm referring to.


/Tiny

Yes tiny I agree. Those can be done later on the actual piece.

Lovely Ray but the wood is still too homogenous in colour in my opinion. i would mask off the individual strips and filter them with other hues to get different shades for the wood. and of course, you need the ingroppi. otherwise it is really looking good.

RayC

German boots had nails [hobnails they are called?] on the underside, and these scratch, so try to imitate by light colour scrtaches in the wood, revealing the natural colour undernight the top layer patina, this can easily be done as the chipping and line effects we use for AFV weathering ... hope it helps as well to add more realistic weathering mate!

G'day

Ivan

Thank you for your comments and help.

Le Rhone Engine finished... Aircraft buffs, your comments pls



...the real thing...

Ray it looks like the real thing, espcially the copper tubeing ...but I thing that the pistons need some drybrushing to bring out more the beautifull detail...just my 2 c..

skyhigh wrote:Ray it looks like the real thing, espcially the copper tubeing ...but I thing that the pistons need some drybrushing to bring out more the beautifull detail...just my 2 c..

Good idea. Will think about the color and see, because I dont want it to become shiny.

Looks spot on Ray C but I tend to agree with Marco re emphasising a bit more the pistons' and fins' detail.......

To achieve this you don't have to neccesarily make it too shiny even though a bit more is better then a bit less as in most cases

Just my 2c worth

Agree with that. You need to emphasise the detail. But it looks really nice. you did a good job.

Thanks mates. It doesn't show in the photo, but the cylinders are washed with Raw Umber, giving them a reddish tinge. What colours do you suggest for highlighting? A muted hue of silver printer's ink? Or acrylic oily steel maybe.

Just silver or aluminium will do. But do go overboard since it will dull down as time passes. So it will be better if you exagerate a bit.

Thanks Brian.

RayCaruana wrote:Thanks Brian.

Ray C, you can always tone down with the same washes you used for the cylinders' fins if you go too much overboard

I prefer to go a bit overboard as then you can just "correct" if you can see it (the overdone contrast that is ) but if you leave it that notch shorter, your eye would settle for it believe me and you won't notice it
I commited this fatal mistake (even recently) on SEVERAL pieces which I REGRET till eternity

Remember the SAS motto...... Who Dares Wins

I will dare this evening and correct as necessary. Will bring it with me to the club tomorrow for feedback. Thanks.

Hi mates

Couldn't come to the club Wednesday as my car's clutch cable broke on my way So here is a photo of the now highlighted engine.

judging from the photo it looks very good...

Excellent Ray, what a hell of a difference, it looks great.

Thank you all for your guidance.

Excellent my friend!

My only suggestion as I am judging from the photos is to add some little pinwashes to rivet and recess areas, to pull out detail more, and some oil filters [maybe burnt umber] in certain pistons [or what they are as I am ignorant in macine parts designations] not to keep them so monochromatic. If you have Tamiya X19 Smoke would give you some help to create stains and filters as well?

What did you use Gunze's Mr Metalics series?

Ivan

iCocker wrote:Excellent my friend!

My only suggestion as I am judging from the photos is to add some little pinwashes to rivet and recess areas, to pull out detail more, and some oil filters [maybe burnt umber] in certain pistons [or what they are as I am ignorant in macine parts designations] not to keep them so monochromatic. If you have Tamiya X19 Smoke would give you some help to create stains and filters as well?

What did you use Gunze's Mr Metalics series?

Ivan

It doesn't show in the photograph, but the cylinders have been washed with burnt umber and therefore have a reddish tinge. I haven't used the Tamiya smoke because I was afraid of producing a bluish filter. But will give it a try.

No I didn't use Gunze Sangyo's metalizers but was very much tempted. Instead I used oils and printer's ink only as suggested by Joseph and Alex at the club. This is the first time I'm dealing with an engine as they were unavailable in the Crusades period

Depends Ray, is the engine meant to be used or new? If it were used, then the previous suggestions would enhance its looks but if it new,then there is no need.

bcauchi wrote:Depends Ray, is the engine meant to be used or new? If it were used, then the previous suggestions would enhance its looks but if it new,then there is no need.

It was captured from a downed aircraft, so some oil stains would enhance it I think.

Yes Ray, in that case it would be good to weather it a bit. Also note what the shaft for the prop looked like. You might need to put in some detail like a thread or any other fitting to which the prop was fixed. Also check if that shaft was hollow or not. I think you need some photos. Once alex told me to mix some oil paint with some linseed oil and apply it to the engine. I always do that and the resultant sheen is very realistic and looks like that thin film of oil which covers most engines. Just an idea which i normally use.

These are the pictures I have where the shaft is shown in